Sherlock meets Dorian, somewhere in Geisha land

bowlers and stays.

At first sight it might seem difficult to find the "read thread" in John Galliano's new AW 2010 men's wear collection he presented yesterday in Paris, in a former bank on Place Vendôme, a somehow less impressive set than the famous swimmingpool last season. Actually there seems to be no leitmotif between the very English Sherlock Homes' emerging from behind a gigantic loupe with trenches and pipes and the deearstalker changed against Colonial style desert hats, the very elegant Dorian Grays' in doubled-breasted suits and then - the most mysterious and unidentifiable, yet very Galliano familiar part - some kind of kung fu fighters in panties with laces in their hair, and at least the Geisha-boys in sarouels. But if you look a bit closer there is one motif coming up in all these four themes: pieces taken out of women's'closets. In the year 2010 it's definetley up to the guys to adapt girls' wardrobe. We have seen men in skirts and sarouels before, but rarely in corsets and suspenders, but now John Galliano adopts the women's item per se: the corset,his fetish item for Dior collections and distinctive mark of New Look, named waspie.

So have a second look and find the sarouels in the first theme and then the variations of the corsets in the other three... 

all images via: www.gq.com, photographer: Andrew Thomas

mushroom clowds

 

different species of mushroom clowds: vaporous - absorbing  - devastating

 credits:

*picture 1: Cai Guo Qiang: The Century with mushroom clouds, Nevada Nuclear Test Site, 1996

*picture 2: photography by Andrea Galvani, www.andreagalvani.com

*t-shirts all Christopher Kane available at net-a-porter:

happy family: about trust, tradition and other myths

about primary values: we all need to trust, to feel save and secure. there is nothing more traditional than the idea of the family being this place called home where ideally several generations share the same space, the same food and - the same clothes. It seems quite hard to still believe in this ideal, but in fashion we keep on dreaming, and so photographer Jürgen Teller seems to have found such an ideal and imanginary place. He presents us this primary myth with his SS 2010 campaign for Italian brand Missoni - starring grandparents Rosita and Tai having dinner with daughter Angela and grandchildren Magherita, Teresa, Francesco, Vittorio, Ottavio Junior, Marco and Giacomo.

Jürgen Teller for Missoni SS 2010, all images via wwd.

human & nature or modern mimicry

Tilda Swinton is an extraordinary actress and an outstanding personality. For the new Pringle of Scotland ad campaign Ryan Mc Ginley highlights her enchanting & ethereous appearance and shows her in a kind of mystical symbiosis & mimesis with nature, plants & environment; with her weaten hair floating in the cornfields, roaming the woods, creeping in an abandoned castle and becoming one with the ocean in the end.

Tilda Swinton for Pringle of Scotland, by Ryan McGinley. here you can find the mystical video.

walk don't run.

go ahead. in quietness, but straight forward. and just walk, don't run. all my best. to me and you and everybody, for this new year still enwombing rum starts of happyness, creativity and inspiration.

Just put a pair of Victor Boa Shoes on, the perfect summer loafers, named after Victor Boa, a virtuoso Panamian Jazz pianist and drum across the street as Victor's fingers tickle across the piano...

 

Put a rock jacket on, just like this one (Olympia Le-Tan for A.P.C.) because all our hearts are lonely hunters.

 and a pair of nice sunglasses, like Alexander Wang's cat eyes.

and don't mind if these things don't match, you'll figure it out, your personal style.

yeah, and don't forget to read and watch, books and blogs, art fairs and films, magazines and newspapers...

your marie beau.