Freitag, 5. März 2010

trial of the nerves

Fashion weeks are crazy. There is this duty (duty for the ones - desire for the others) of being everywhere, seing everything, attending all the shoes, meeting everyone - or at least the "important" ones, not to miss the show and place to be (well ok, I mix up duty and desire, the others and me). Between all the shows, the events, the launches, the parties, the pop up stores... oh là là, and then you want to think about, analyse and try to understand the collections, the designer's new vision, their interpretation of today's society.
Evidently, the most suffering in this crazy circus are the journalists, editors and stylists for whom it is not that much fun any more when everything becomes a hysterical rush from one town to the other, from one show to the next,
and then for me, working in office all day, preparing a big show and still eager of seeing other collections, meeting people, oh what a conflict, well

 you have to move fast - fast -  fast

Stefano Tonchi of the New York Times complaines about fashion having become this "full-on entertainement machine" and really calls into question today's and tomorrow's fashion industry:

Stefano Tonchi commenting the hysterical fashion race:
"The problem with international fashion weeks and their legitimacy is a larger one now that fashion moves so fast and is a full-on entertainment machine. Are biannual fashion shows really the way to present fashion when stores need new merchandise every week? When there are so many collections presented throughout the year, when fragrances and other accessories and products are so important to the life of the brand, what does it mean to run across the planet to see similar collections over and over again every six months?
Shouldn’t we rethink the whole system and have fewer fashion weeks and instead more showroom meetings with buyers and fashion market editors? Shouldn’t designers take more time to really work on ideas and to research new fabrics and shapes and show only when they are ready and have something new to say? Shouldn’t their marketing teams make better use of the budgets for what really is significant to the life of the brand?
This is not just a Milan problem but an international one. It is a good problem because it indicates that we are part of a growing process. Fashion has become more and more important in our culture, and it has to play a more significant role in shaping the future of it. But it does take time. Surely more than a weekend."

discussed also on the
some impressions: what I liked yesterday
Giovanna Battaglia yesterday night at the Vogue Bar opening at the Hotel Crillon in this fantastic cut out leather dress from   Francesco Scognamiglio's brandnew Autumn Winter 2011 collection, if anybody got a picture of her, don't hesitate to send it over... well this gave me the chance to discover his collection, here another highlight:

and then, my absolute "coup de coeur", my beloved BALENCIAGA... Nicolas Ghesquière is my hero: he did a real research on material, shapes and colours, he's got something to say! a will let you know my analysis at a later date.

all images via


Lulu S. hat gesagt…

I like the idea of designers showing when they are ready,taking more time to research what will carry them for the longevity- as opposed to being swooped up in the rush of creating collections according to the crazy fashion calenders.

Anonym hat gesagt…

Hi dear !!
So sorry sorry, last wednesday I didn't understant much, I just realized you're the Maria working for the Mode News on 160g & so on !!!
So I just wanted to tell you that I published my Valentino articles, both on rossovelvet and on 160g... it was really a beautiful day and a great moment at Valentino, so thanks again for inviting me !