Samstag, 23. Januar 2010

Sherlock meets Dorian, somewhere in Geisha land

bowlers and stays.

At first sight it might seem difficult to find the "read thread" in John Galliano's new AW 2010 men's wear collection he presented yesterday in Paris, in a former bank on Place Vendôme, a somehow less impressive set than the famous swimmingpool last season. Actually there seems to be no leitmotif between the very English Sherlock Homes' emerging from behind a gigantic loupe with trenches and pipes and the deearstalker changed against Colonial style desert hats, the very elegant Dorian Grays' in doubled-breasted suits and then - the most mysterious and unidentifiable, yet very Galliano familiar part - some kind of kung fu fighters in panties with laces in their hair, and at least the Geisha-boys in sarouels. But if you look a bit closer there is one motif coming up in all these four themes: pieces taken out of women's'closets. In the year 2010 it's definetley up to the guys to adapt girls' wardrobe. We have seen men in skirts and sarouels before, but rarely in corsets and suspenders, but now John Galliano adopts the women's item per se: the corset,his fetish item for Dior collections and distinctive mark of New Look, named waspie.
So have a second look and find the sarouels in the first theme and then the variations of the corsets in the other three... 

all images via:, photographer: Andrew Thomas

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